malay cuisine, regarded as a traditional and local affair, has always been the type of food often sold at roadside stalls, in the standard, run-of-the-mill Malay restaurants or within the Malay household, often for celebrations or family feasts. 

Rarely do these types of dishes appear in the menus of high end eateries, let alone become the centrepiece, but there has been the rise of a few dedicated in modernising Malay dishes that appeals to an international audience. 

One such dining place is Bijan Bar & Restaurant, located in Jalan Ceylon, Kuala Lumpur.

Proudly serving patrons for the past 15 years with royalty and foreign dignitaries all the way to the common folk having walked through their doors, there is something for the foodie who craves for authentic Malay dishes to enjoy at Bijan. 

The concept behind Bijan is to bring Malay cuisine to become a staple with the global community in KL. 

The restaurant blends elements from fine dining such as the use of ribs and other cuts of beef not normally used in Malay dishes and local herbs and spices to create a unique dining experience that is modern but still maintains the authentic Malay feel.

Utilising an old colonial building dating back to the British days, repurposed for contemporary fine dining, Bijan Bar has a rustic feel to it with hues of red and orange lighting in the indoor segment which also houses the bar.

As for the outdoor partition, it gives a sense of calm and serenity for diners with bamboo fences and rolls creating an enclosure for patrons to enjoy their meal comfortably away from the sweltering Kuala Lumpur heat and also noise from the city’s busy streets.

“Bijan is supposed to be a refined Malay cuisine restaurant where we can proudly say that we want to serve and concentrate on Malay dishes, just Malay cuisine itself.

“You have your Rendang Tok, you have the authentic Malay dishes like Masak Lemak and Tempoyak but they are refined,” said Good Food Trio Company senior sales & marketing manager Selena Mak.

Refined, she explains, is defined as Bijan’s use of better quality items for their dishes such as Patin Tempoyak, “Instead of using kampung durian, we use D24 durians which gives a more creamy texture. We also use imported beef for rendang and the beef dishes or the ribs.Commenting on denizens dwelling in the area, she said it is a mix of expatriates and locals given Kuala Lumpur’s location being the nation’s capital and the hub for many multinational companies.

RATE EAT! 

Aneka Pembuka Selera 

A selection of Bijan’s starters; cucur udang, popiah goreng, daging bungkus kukus and begedil.

The starters are some of the classic Malay delicacies reminiscent of kampung-style munchies served on a warm evening along with a drink to boot.

The densely wrapped popiah was fried to golden brown and works best when dipped into the homemade sauce which has a slight hint of sweetness with the chillis being mild enough to not leave a burning sensation in the mouth.

As for the cucur udang, it has been prepared in a similar way as another Malay favourite, cucur jagung udang where it has a crispy exterior as a result of the batter mixing with the vegetables. Underneath lies the soft prawn which is a pleasant surprise from the harder exterior.

The daging bungkus takes the cake as the best appetiser with its tender minced meat, herbs and coconut gravy wrapped in thin pancake sheets. From the start, there was an explosion of flavours ranging from sweet to savoury which makes a good introduction to those who are not familiar to Malay cuisine.

As for the begedil, it was a no-nonsense affair as the texture was smooth and the potato and meat contained was beautifully mashed to create a delicious Malay classic.

Opor Rusuk 

Australian beef ribs slow-cooked in a thick gravy of aromatic spices,toasted coconut, palm sugar and coconut milk. 

Infusing a western element into a Malay cooking, Bijan takes a cut of meat which is more popular with a western audience, the ribs, and marries it with spices commonly used in eastern cooking to create a delightful combination that is best eaten with white rice.

Ayam Masak Kuzi 

Tender chicken pieces, fresh tomatoes, almond and raisins simmered in spiced coconut milk gravy.

The pieces of chicken used for the dish was tender with the sauce being creamy which had a slight hint of raisins within it. A mild dish which can be recommended for those who have a low tolerance for spicy food.

Sotong Hitam Manis 

Squid cooked with chili paste, lemongrass and squid ink

The squid was a delight with the sambal having a slight kick to it but was not overpowering. It is similar to the Italian squid ink pasta where it is used to become part of the gravy. Recommended for those looking to try something different as it is a rarity even in Malay households.

Masak Lemak Ikan Kurau dengan Pisang Kapas 

Threadfin fillets cooked in lightly spiced coconut milk with young bananas

One of the best dishes by the restaurant, it is reminiscent of the minang-style masak lemak but lacks the heat that is commonly associated with this Negeri Sembilan favourite. 

Making up for the lack of punch is the creamier texture from the D24 durians used to make the gravy. The combination of the gravy, fish and young bananas creates a delicately balanced dish.

Pucuk Paku Goreng Tahi Minyak 

Wild fern stir-fried with chili, caramelised coconut and shrimp

The caramalised coconut and shrimp were an interesting addition to a Malay classic as it gives off a slight hint of sweetness which was not overbearing and the shrimp was succulent.

Pandan Pudding 

Cream pudding infused with fragrant pandan leaves and palm sugar syrup

A sweet dessert that has a rich and thick pandan flavour is indeed a treat. The use of the pandan is cleverly done as it represents a Malay classic turned into a contemporary delight.

Gula Melaka Cake

Steamed palm sugar sponge cake served warm with a shot of caramelized palm sugar sauce and coconut ice cream

Best taken with the caramalised palm sugar sauce and coconut ice cream in one spoonful, this explosion of flavours combines the polar opposites of a warm sponge cake and the cold coconut ice cream, with the palm sugar sauce as the sweet kick.

Chocolate Durian Cake 

Creamy durian sandwiched between moist chocolate cake and coated in chocolate ganache

This was a weird marriage that ended in a fairytale ending. Chocolate and durian, a combination that does not really work in theory but was a wonderful desert to have. The slight bitterness from the chocolate and the creamy texture from the durian proved to be a good way to end our meal at Bijan.