the wooden boards creaked softly under our feet as we climbed the long and unassuming staircase. Midway through, our nostrils picked up the unmistakable smell of roasted coffee beans wafting through the air.
Around us, the sound of ceramic clinking against metal spoons could be heard, mimicking the forgotten cries of bells that once rang in temples. Crossing the threshold, we were delighted to see a dining space endearingly trapped in a time pocket.
Walls with greenish paint—chipped in many places, formed the interiors of the Merchant’s Lane Cafe. It speaks of a fond past; where humble beginnings started like the first stroke of a brush on a canvass.
The dilapidation was made profound by an intrepid tree that made residence in the cracks of the walls; its roots stubbornly finding purchase on the hard surface. There are three sections to the cafe—the main dining area, the outdoor and relaxed area, and another artsy indoor space. For those who prefer a relaxed ambience, the outdoor dining area will be delightful.
There, a couple of millennials can be seen giggling as they jostled around for space; taking wefies with their smartphones. Those devices seemed incongruous against the old paraphernalia assembled here. Instagram addicts will find this area inspiring and, likes are guaranteed.
It is remarkable that the owners have tried to capture the essence of yesteryears through the usage of the rattan chairs, spiral incense and wooden partitions. Stepping into this cafe gave us vivid ideas of what it must have been to live in the bygone eras. Mellow sunlight streamed in through the refurbished roofs, immersing the diners in an old world charm.
According to Merchant’s Lane Cafe founder Ken Ho Kok Hoong, this place was once a brothel. Years later, he and two other partners renovated the entire place for a sum of over half a million, turning the once seedy joint into its current pleasant state.
To add to the surprise, Ho, who had no formal education in culinary arts was responsible for creating all the food on the menu. He embarrassingly admitted that he derived his cooking techniques by watching YouTube videos.
His style of cooking involves a blend of Western and Asian flavours, or in his way of putting it, “East meets West.” Even the names of the food were hilariously appetising— some were called The Taukey, The Mistress, Kai Fan or even better, Kai Fan 4.0.
Hence, visitors should not be expecting local fares or the mainstream western cuisine, but rather a meal that brings out the strengths of both. “The key to running a cafe is consistency,” stressed Ho, adding that the quality of the food must be maintained. He believed some of the major challenges are in training and running a group of staffs capable of retaining quality control over the meals prepared.
Another of Ho’s secret ingredient in running a business was the act of giving. “We hire everyone to be a part of this big family,” he said. Ho even took in an employee without formal education to work in his kitchen.
“It is all about giving back to the people,” he said, smiling contentedly.
RATE EAT!
Cow Food
The vegetables were perfectly cooked and greatly complemented the dish. The pesto blended well with the pasta and the aftertaste was pleasant enough to allure you to order another plate. However, the winner of this dish is the fried brinjal.
Crispy coating to a soft and tender inside made the vegetable irresistible. All the elements of this vegetarian dish complemented and highlighted each other well. Good portion, reasonable pricing, and excellent taste; just the right combination to make you go mooo.
South China Sea
We aren’t sure if this slab of salmon meat came from the South China Sea, but it is fresh and that is what matters the most. The grilled salmon is served with a fine helping of 63°C eggs and housemade hash; just the right breakfast to start the day.
I would recommend the addition of some sauce to help wash the salmon down. But perhaps the chef had specially made the meat bare to ensure that the natural flavour isn’t compromised.
Kalau Aku Kaya
Who wouldn’t be rich if they had a possession of fried brioche-style bread balls, served with tangy lemon ice cream and kaya sauce; rich with taste, that is. The lemon ice cream was overpoweringly sour when eaten on its own. You can swivel it up with the sweet kaya sauce to soften the tangy taste.
As for the bread balls, its texture was crispy on the outside yet endearingly soft on the inside. Eat them together with the ice-cream, kaya, almond nuts, strawberries and Oreo crumbles. It is one inspiring bite that will leave you saying ‘Mmmmm’ until you wipe that plate clean.
Butter Chicken Pasta
Despite its namesake, the buttercream pasta isn’t like the garden variety ones. For starters, it avoided most of the common pitfalls; the butter sauce had a fair balance of being not too creamy or diluted.
The fried chicken maintains a fine crunch exterior that yields easily to the teeth. The chef also creatively incorporated curry into the sauce to cater to the Malaysian taste buds.
Rose Honey Milk
The delightfully creamy rose honey milk is is accompanied by the fragrance of crushed rose petals that calms the mind. Take a sip and allow the drink to silkily caress your throat. The light sweetness unmistakably comes from the usage of honey as a substitute for sugar.
Mimi’s Handcrafted Tea
I want to meet Mimi because her handcrafted tea is terrific— it looks rustic and warm and tastes so too. It is also pleasing to have it served on an idyllic afternoon; just what you need for a pick-me-up at 3pm.
Opening Hours: Weekdays (11.30am - 10.00pm) Weekends (9.30am - 10.00pm)
Phone No: +603 20221736
Address: 150, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Website: https://www.facebook.com/merchantslane/