More than just food

Rediscovering our perennial cuisines By Viktor Chong viktorchong@thestar.com.my I F there is anything to remember Malaysia by, it is definitely our impressive array of gastronomic delights.

From the rustic canteens of villagers, to the metropolises where cafes and restaurants dominate, food is everywhere.They are either steeped in tradition or augmented by the infusion of different cultures.

Regardless, food is among the few prominent elements that define us, and the Malaysian experience is never complete without a few of these favourite mentions: Nasi Lemak Nasi Lemak, often confused with the eastern Nasi Dagang makes its stand as the nation’s iconic dish.

Its signature creamy rice and fragrant smell has won over the hearts of most Malaysians, hence its ubiquitous presence.

Due to its success, entrepreneurs have taken to creating nasi lemak-themed burgers, and even cakes.

However, these dimmer modern interpretations lack the brilliance of the original.

“Maybe it’s just my preference, but the sambal is the most important aspect of the Nasi Lemak,” said Siti Suriati Che Ridzuan, 23.

“I think the best sambal should not be salty, but a balance of spicy and sweet,” she said.

Suriati refuses the pidgeon-hole the Malay community’s iconic dish to just the Nasi Lemak.

She believed each state can be represented by its own cultural dish.

Hailing from Kelantan, Suriati said her home state is best represented by the Nasi Berlauk, which is composed of rice and Ikan Tongkol, ladled in creamy yellowish sauce.

Siti Suriati Che Ridzuan “The Kelantan folks can easily identify the city people if they ask for Nasi Lemak for breakfast instead of Nasi Berlauk,” she said.

According to records, Nasi Lemak can be traced back to 1909, when it was first mentioned in a book titled “The Circumstances of Malay Life”, written by Sir Richard Olof Winstedt. The origins of Nasi Lemak may have been lost in the anals of history, but a charming folklore describes its inception comically.  Apparently, it began in a small village near Malacca where a widow named Mak Kuntum, and her daughter, Seri, lived.

The mother left the house one fateful day and Seri was left alone to stoke the fires in the kitchen.  Seri, in her carelessness, spilt coconut milk into the boiling pot of rice and the house was filled with the sweet fragrance.

Mak Kuntum who came home later, smelled the aroma and immediately questioned her daughter.

Seri replied, “Nasi le, Mak.” And from that day onwards, it was called Nasi Lemak.  Despite Nasi Lemak being notoriously known as an unhealthy food, the TIME Magazine, back in 2016, had recognised it as one of the 10 most healthy international breakfast.

The namesake Nasi Lemak, or crudely translated as fatty rice certainly didn’t put any doubt into the minds of the westerners.  Durian The king of fruit certainly distinguishes itself among Malaysia’s colourful assortment of food.

Bristling with vicious thorns, its fearsome appearance belies the sweet flesh that lay nestled within.Theoretically, the prickly hide functions both as a protective measure as well as to ensure the effective distribution of the durian seed.

Smaller animals lack the ability to breach the husk, and this is fine considering that they are less likely to swallow or carry the seeds far away from the parent tree; larger critters, however, are capable of both.

 If the appearance of the durian alone does not deter, it also exudes an odious smell that wards off most but the bravest westerner.

Conversely, most Malaysians, Singaporeans and the jungle denizen find the aroma appetising.

Some people even attempt to amplify the smell by cracking the shell and allowing the flesh to ripen in the open.

This technique alters the flesh, making it creamy with a slightly alcoholic taste.  Najlaa Bellagamba Najlaa Bellagamba, 30, describes the taste of Durian as sort of a big version of an orange pulp, but with sweet cream-filled inside.

“I’m into sweet durian, not the pungent acidic types,” she said. Najlaa, however, sees the Durian as a South-East Asian icon, and not just a Malaysian thing.

Even so, she’s in the opinion that Malaysian durians are a lot more flavourful and fresh compared to the ones produced in other countries.   Here are a few more thorny facts about the Durian:  Here are a few more thorny facts about the Durian:  1/ Despite earning its place as Malaysia’s most iconic fruit, Thailand is actually the largest exporter of Durian.  2/ The seed is actually edible despite being largely discarded after eating.

While potentially toxic, it can be neutralised by being thoroughly boiled or fried.

3/ Durian seeds when processed into a pulp exhibits a sticky quality, hence its usage as an adhesive for household appliances and building materials.

4/ According to research by Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, Durian contains an impressive amount of vitamins and minerals, such as magnesium, zinc, phosphorus, potassium, vitamin C, calcium and more.

Banana leaf rice The Indian migration to Malaysian shores also brought along the endearing banana leaf rice.

Like its namesake, the meal is served on a banana leaf, which in itself imparts a subtle aroma that makes the food more appetising.  The meal itself is composed of rice with a sumptuous selection of vegetable dishes placed at the top half of the leaf.

They range from spinach, cabbage, beans, potatoes, chutney and cucumber. According to Prem Nair, 43, the banana leaf rice is the perfect blend of sweet, sour, bitter and spicy.

“It represents the indian’s talent at mixing up the food taste,” he said, adding that there are very few meals out there that has such a unique combination.

Top that with curry, and a side of crunchy papadum, not forgetting the spicy, sourish soup, also called as Rasam to stimulate one’s appetite.

Prem Nair Those who aren’t fans of chilli could have a helping of Tairu, a fresh yoghurt to tone down the spiciness. When Prem was young, his sister often took him to the banana leaf rice shop nearby Klang.

“Back then, I was careful when eating as I didn’t want to scratch or tear up the leaf.

I thought that the leaf was like a plate, and I would have to pay for any damage done to it,” he said.

Little did he know that the leaf was thrown away after eating, and his sister had to do some explaining to ease his mind.

With regards to the leaf, etiquette dictates that the guest must always fold the banana leaf inwards.

This is done as a sign of gratitude to the host, even if the host happens to be the owner of a restaurant.

Inversely, the leaf is folded outwards during a funeral as a sign of condolence to the family of the deceased.

Roti canai Who would have thought that the 24 hour mamak stall could serve so many functions.

Besides the obvious purpose as a convenient eatery, it is the unofficial forum from which Malaysians discuss the country’s issues, and of course, football.

At the mamak stall, anyone could be a professional football analyst.

All you need is a plate of roti canai, coupled with a cup of teh tarik, and a few aggressive hand gestures over the table to stress your opinion.  Enough about football, Roti Canai is as malleable as the very flour that made it.

The options available are only limited to the imagination of the roti maker.

As of now, myriad variations have sprung up, such as the Roti Sardine, Roti Telur, Roti Bawang or Roti Bom.  Tengku Ali Sulaiman Rizal Tengku Ali Sulaiman, 20, said his favourite was the Roti Canai Banjir as having the bread soaked in curry gives it a whole new experience.

He added that it was almost mandatory to discuss football when having a “Mamak” session.

“Whether if it’s for an Olympic badminton game, or just to watch football, the Mamak stall is the number one spot,” said Ali.

The making of the Roti Canai is also a work of art.

The tossing and folding of the dough require the right technique.

First, the flour is flattened into a thick pancake-like shape, and then it is spread thinly and folded again.

This time, the flour is allowed to develop an air pocket, which is folded yet another time.

The purpose behind this flour tossing acrobatics is to ensure that the roti develops a fluffy, light finish with just the right balance of crispiness.

Chicken rice The Chinese community lays claim to the popular chicken rice, which traces its roots back to Hainan, the southern province of China.

Brought along by the chinese immigrants, the chicken rice is a contagious dish due to its simplicity and deliciousness.  These qualities allowed the chicken rice to spread throughout Southeast Asia and the vast geographical range has further introduced variations in the cooking style.

For example, the original Hainanese chicken rice requires the chicken to be poached.

The bird is then submerged in ice to produce the jelly-like texture skin finishing and hung to dry.  On the other hand, the Malays adapted a halal version, and the chicken is either roasted or grilled.

The people of Malacca prefer to roll their rice into balls. Another interesting fact about the chicken rice is that the meat is relatively tasteless when eaten on its own.

Lily Fong Chee Ling “The perfect chicken rice requires the whole ensemble of accompanying dishes and condiments,” said Lily Fong Chee Ling, 45.

In order to experience the chicken rice in its entirety, the chicken should be taken together with the oil-soaked rice, liberal amounts of soup and of course, the garlic-chili sauce.

Each component works in harmony with the other, and that unity creates the taste that people come to love.

“My best chicken rice will still be the Malacca Chicken Rice Ball.

However, it has become too commercialised these days,” said Fong.

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