While the colour scheme of the signage may not pop out for newcomers, just about every resident in the neighbourhood knows where Woo Pin Fish Head Noodles can be found. By Kevin Eichenberger kevin.eichenberger@thestar.com.my e ven with a specialised selection of main dishes, the longevity of the Woo Pin Fish Head Noodles restaurant speaks volumes of the namesake dish’s popularity among the residents of Old Klang Road.
Serving the residents of Taman Danau Desa daily (except Fridays) with a menu that has remained unchanged for over a decade, the unassuming restaurant known as Woo Pin Fish Head Noodles is an often referenced landmark – being situated at one of the quieter crossroads adjacent to Old Klang Road.
The Fried Fish Head and Mee Hoon variation of the restaurant’s namesake dish, pictured with the requisite saucer of aromatic sambal belacan.
The limited menu presents Mee Hoon and soup-only variations of dishes containing fish paste, and fresh or fried heads of bighead carp (松鱼), or one of the local species of grouper (kerapu), in addition to sizable freshwater prawns with their heads and shells kept intact to preserve their sweet flavour.
While not a signature dish of this restaurant, the prawn variation presents a wholly different gastronomic experience with the taste of freshwater prawns mingling with the well-balanced fish soup. In addition to the noodle or soup-only versions of the main course dishes, Woo Pin also serves fried fish cake and fish paste in tofu skin (腐竹) as side dishes.
Only well-practiced foodies will be able to thoroughly enjoy the side dishes – fried fish cake and foo chok – and only after adequately pacing themselves through the main course. The soup base is completely pork-free and pescatarian-friendly – brewed over the course of a day with anchovies (ikan bilis), fish stock, yam beans (沙葛), and preserved turnip (醃大頭菜).
When served, the cloudy-white soup is given a vibrant reddish tint with the addition of diced tomatoes, made sweeter and creamier with Carnation evaporated milk, and topped with dashes of fried shallots, chopped spring onions, and strips of ginger to accompany the taste of freshwater fish or prawns.
The primary ingredient of the namesake dish being fresh fish, the Fresh Fish Head and Fish Paste varieties of Woo Pin’s offerings sell out quickly – often being completely depleted during the weekday lunch rush.
The Mee Hoon variations of the main dishes are made with artisanal rice vermicelli – delivered fresh when Woo Pin opens at 7.30am, with the extra bite of the unique noodles remaining evident well into the evening when the restaurant closes at 10pm.
The accompaniment of sambal belacan – despite being relatively mild – consistently triggers salivation with its smell alone and carries a tinge of lime that blends with the soup to create yet another surprising layer of taste.
The drinks menu is decidedly old-school – drinks served include umbra juice, the Michael Jackson (cincau grass jelly and soy milk), and a three-layer tea with liquid gula Melaka at the bottom.
The apparent house specialty is a subtle blend of barley and bean-curd (白果薏米腐竹糖水), served with a generous helping of Ginkgo biloba (maidenhair tree) seeds that have been painstakingly peeled by hand.
Dredging the bottom of the glass with the provided spoon will reveal a surprising number of Ginkgo biloba seeds in this barley and tofu drink. If healthy food in the vicinity of Old Klang Road is on your agenda, the Woo Pin Fish Head Noodles restaurant in Taman Danau Desa will definitely have something guilt-free for pescatarians and health-conscious foodies..
